A patch of invasive stiltgrass detected in Barry State Game Area in a road right-of-way.
Stiltgrass, a highly invasive annual grass that spreads quickly in disturbed areas, recently was detected in Augusta Creek, Barry and Petersburg state game areas.
The detections were the result of surveys conducted by the Michigan Invasive Species Program’s new public lands response team. Two foresters and two biologists were hired by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources through a 2024 State General Fund increase for the program, focusing on early detection and rapid response for watch list species on the state’s 4.6 million acres of public land.
Biologists Petar Simic and Natalie Bekins have spent the summer seeking out and treating infestations of watch list invasive species on state lands in the southern Lower Peninsula.
Invasive species on Michigan’s watch list pose an immediate or potential threat to Michigan's economy, environment or human health. These species either have never been confirmed in the wild in Michigan or have a limited known distribution.
In early August, Simic located the stiltgrass infestation at Petersburg State Game Area in Monroe County by following up on an online report submitted by a park user, who had begun removing the grass.
The response team manually removed and disposed of all visible stiltgrass and will continue to monitor the site and remove new growth.
Bekins detected stiltgrass at the Barry State Game Area in Barry County while conducting an oak wilt survey in late August. Just a few weeks later, she encountered the invasive grass at Augusta Creek State Game Area in Kalamazoo County. Chemical treatment and manual removal were used at both sites. The response team will work with game area staff to continue monitoring and expand survey efforts along roads and rights-of-way in both areas.
Invasive stiltgrass is widespread in the southeastern U.S., including expanding areas in Indiana and Ohio. It was first detected in Michigan in 2017, when an infestation was confirmed on private lands in Washtenaw County.
Additional surveying has shown that this original infestation covers a large area of both public and private land along the Huron River northwest of Ann Arbor. A coalition including Ann Arbor and Washtenaw County parks and recreation departments and Wild Ones, a native plant collaborative, is managing infestations on public lands and training landowners in techniques for private land management. The Jackson, Lenawee and Washtenaw Cooperative Invasive Species Management Area continues to scout for new infestations in the area.
Smaller infestations in Berrien, Cass and Kent counties are being managed by local CISMAs.
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Why be concerned?
Invasive stiltgrass (Microstegium vimineum) – also known as Nepalese browntop or Japanese stiltgrass – is highly adaptable, thriving in various soil, moisture and light conditions. It takes hold in areas of disturbed soil along forest edges, roadways, recreational trails, floodplains and stream corridors.
Each plant can produce up to 1,000 seeds, which can be spread by vehicles, foot traffic, water and wildlife. Because deer don’t feed on stiltgrass, it often takes over in areas where deer browse on native plants and leave open patches of soil.
Landowners, land managers and anyone spending time outdoors should look out for stiltgrass and report the location and photos of any suspected plants to the Midwest Invasive Species Information Network.
Stiltgrass looks like some native grasses, so it may not appear out of the ordinary to the general observer. Here is what to look for:
• A thin, bamboo-like grass with jointed stems and well-spaced leaves.
• Smooth green leaves 2 to 3 inches long and one-half inch wide, tapering to points at both ends, often with an off-center silver stripe or mid-rib.
• 1-to-3-foot-high beds of grass, with some stems running across the ground and others shooting upright.
• Roots, both at the base and stem joints, that are weakly attached to the soil and easy to pull up.
• One to three slender, green flower spikes at the stem tips, appearing in August or September.
Be aware of lookalikes. A few common plants in Michigan easily may be mistaken for stiltgrass.
• Smartweeds (Polygonum spp.), with tiny, white to pink flowers on a short spike and a tell-tale dark blotch near the center of each leaf.
• Whitegrass (Leersia virginica), which is well-rooted in the soil and has longer, thinner leaves than stiltgrass, with no mid-rib stripe.
• Northern shorthusk (Brachyelytrum aristosum), with fine hairs on the top, bottom and edges of its leaves and stems, and leaf veins in a pattern resembling an irregular brick wall.
When enjoying the outdoors, stay on trails and, whenever possible, park in paved or cleared areas.
If you have been hiking, biking or four-wheeling, always take time to clean your shoes, gear and vehicles before going to a new location.
More information on invasive species identification and prevention is available at Michigan.gov/Invasives.
The detections were the result of surveys conducted by the Michigan Invasive Species Program’s new public lands response team. Two foresters and two biologists were hired by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources through a 2024 State General Fund increase for the program, focusing on early detection and rapid response for watch list species on the state’s 4.6 million acres of public land.
Biologists Petar Simic and Natalie Bekins have spent the summer seeking out and treating infestations of watch list invasive species on state lands in the southern Lower Peninsula.
Invasive species on Michigan’s watch list pose an immediate or potential threat to Michigan's economy, environment or human health. These species either have never been confirmed in the wild in Michigan or have a limited known distribution.
In early August, Simic located the stiltgrass infestation at Petersburg State Game Area in Monroe County by following up on an online report submitted by a park user, who had begun removing the grass.
The response team manually removed and disposed of all visible stiltgrass and will continue to monitor the site and remove new growth.
Bekins detected stiltgrass at the Barry State Game Area in Barry County while conducting an oak wilt survey in late August. Just a few weeks later, she encountered the invasive grass at Augusta Creek State Game Area in Kalamazoo County. Chemical treatment and manual removal were used at both sites. The response team will work with game area staff to continue monitoring and expand survey efforts along roads and rights-of-way in both areas.
Invasive stiltgrass is widespread in the southeastern U.S., including expanding areas in Indiana and Ohio. It was first detected in Michigan in 2017, when an infestation was confirmed on private lands in Washtenaw County.
Additional surveying has shown that this original infestation covers a large area of both public and private land along the Huron River northwest of Ann Arbor. A coalition including Ann Arbor and Washtenaw County parks and recreation departments and Wild Ones, a native plant collaborative, is managing infestations on public lands and training landowners in techniques for private land management. The Jackson, Lenawee and Washtenaw Cooperative Invasive Species Management Area continues to scout for new infestations in the area.
Smaller infestations in Berrien, Cass and Kent counties are being managed by local CISMAs.
—————
Why be concerned?
Invasive stiltgrass (Microstegium vimineum) – also known as Nepalese browntop or Japanese stiltgrass – is highly adaptable, thriving in various soil, moisture and light conditions. It takes hold in areas of disturbed soil along forest edges, roadways, recreational trails, floodplains and stream corridors.
Each plant can produce up to 1,000 seeds, which can be spread by vehicles, foot traffic, water and wildlife. Because deer don’t feed on stiltgrass, it often takes over in areas where deer browse on native plants and leave open patches of soil.
Landowners, land managers and anyone spending time outdoors should look out for stiltgrass and report the location and photos of any suspected plants to the Midwest Invasive Species Information Network.
Stiltgrass looks like some native grasses, so it may not appear out of the ordinary to the general observer. Here is what to look for:
• A thin, bamboo-like grass with jointed stems and well-spaced leaves.
• Smooth green leaves 2 to 3 inches long and one-half inch wide, tapering to points at both ends, often with an off-center silver stripe or mid-rib.
• 1-to-3-foot-high beds of grass, with some stems running across the ground and others shooting upright.
• Roots, both at the base and stem joints, that are weakly attached to the soil and easy to pull up.
• One to three slender, green flower spikes at the stem tips, appearing in August or September.
Be aware of lookalikes. A few common plants in Michigan easily may be mistaken for stiltgrass.
• Smartweeds (Polygonum spp.), with tiny, white to pink flowers on a short spike and a tell-tale dark blotch near the center of each leaf.
• Whitegrass (Leersia virginica), which is well-rooted in the soil and has longer, thinner leaves than stiltgrass, with no mid-rib stripe.
• Northern shorthusk (Brachyelytrum aristosum), with fine hairs on the top, bottom and edges of its leaves and stems, and leaf veins in a pattern resembling an irregular brick wall.
When enjoying the outdoors, stay on trails and, whenever possible, park in paved or cleared areas.
If you have been hiking, biking or four-wheeling, always take time to clean your shoes, gear and vehicles before going to a new location.
More information on invasive species identification and prevention is available at Michigan.gov/Invasives.
Connecting Waters of Lake Michigan Perch
By Jack Payne
Perch fishing offers a nice change of pace from the usual fast-paced angling. You don't have to get out on the water before sunrise, since perch usually start feeding an hour or two after the sun comes up.
Perch moves in from Lake Michigan as the big lake cools. They will continue moving into the connecting waters late into the fall and will stay in these connecting waters until after ice-out.
When perch enter these connecting waters, they seem to prefer two main spots. The first, and often overlooked, is the shallow water weeds.
Feeding perch move into any green weedbeds and gorge themselves on the minnows. Sometimes we will find the perch in shallow back bays, canals, channels, and around weeds that are near marinas or shallow flats.
My best advice is to keep moving. Make a route that hits all the weedbeds in your lake. Set up your fish finder with color codes for different depths. For example, I use red for areas between zero and three feet deep.
I use one shade of blue for 6-to-10 feet and a darker blue for anything deeper. Most fish finders made in the last 10 years have this feature.
Turning on your graph and going to the chart or map page, you will quickly see where potential weeds might be located. Then run to each spot and see if any weeds are present. Spend 10 minutes fishing a spot and move if no action is found.
Our next spot would be a deep flat fairly close to the channel. On lakes like Muskegon and White, we have deep flats within eyesight of the piers. Deep flats near a weedbed are another option.
Rocks and rip-rap will draw perch on occasion, and these spots are easy to see with your eyes. Most often, the best rocks are near the channel areas. A slip bobber works well over the rip-rap and rock piles.
Three days before writing this, we were on a connecting body of water chasing down perch. Eighty percent of our fish were caught on a Hali jig. Whenever possible, we use the Hali jig in place of a sinker.
Wind, current and very deep waters might dictate going to a bell sinker.
Minnows are a productive bait and are used by most anglers, and with good reason. The primary issue with minnows, finding a store that sells them and keeping them alive afterwards.
One of my perch buddies bought an old aquarium and keeps the minnows in it. It works well, and each day he removes a quart or two of water and adds a quart or two of water.
Worms and wax worms work well, and as the water cools, spikes come on strong. We have a secret bait that works well from time to time. Frozen shrimp cut into small strips and soaked in anise oil. This is not always the best bait, but it catches fish on most days, is easy to care for, and inexpensive.
On most days, perch are not picky; however, there are days when only one bait will land any fish. Perch Pounder rigs, homemade fish skin flies, bright sparkly flies, glow in the dark teardrops, small spoons, mini spinner harness rigs, minnows, wax worms, shrimp, leaf worms, and spikes all catch their fair share of perch.
We fish with two rods, and one rod will have either a Perch Pounder or my home-made fish skin flies. A second rod will have a glow-in-the-dark teardrop and some type of bright perch fly.
Perch are drawn to bright colors, and having a piece of flash-a-bou or crystal flash looks like a fleeing minnow and draws the attention of a perch. We tip our lures with a combination of minnows, shrimp, and worms. As the water cools, the worms are out, and wax worms or spikes take hold. Enjoy fall fishing and remember the good folks at Bob's Gun and Tackle Shop.
Perch fishing offers a nice change of pace from the usual fast-paced angling. You don't have to get out on the water before sunrise, since perch usually start feeding an hour or two after the sun comes up.
Perch moves in from Lake Michigan as the big lake cools. They will continue moving into the connecting waters late into the fall and will stay in these connecting waters until after ice-out.
When perch enter these connecting waters, they seem to prefer two main spots. The first, and often overlooked, is the shallow water weeds.
Feeding perch move into any green weedbeds and gorge themselves on the minnows. Sometimes we will find the perch in shallow back bays, canals, channels, and around weeds that are near marinas or shallow flats.
My best advice is to keep moving. Make a route that hits all the weedbeds in your lake. Set up your fish finder with color codes for different depths. For example, I use red for areas between zero and three feet deep.
I use one shade of blue for 6-to-10 feet and a darker blue for anything deeper. Most fish finders made in the last 10 years have this feature.
Turning on your graph and going to the chart or map page, you will quickly see where potential weeds might be located. Then run to each spot and see if any weeds are present. Spend 10 minutes fishing a spot and move if no action is found.
Our next spot would be a deep flat fairly close to the channel. On lakes like Muskegon and White, we have deep flats within eyesight of the piers. Deep flats near a weedbed are another option.
Rocks and rip-rap will draw perch on occasion, and these spots are easy to see with your eyes. Most often, the best rocks are near the channel areas. A slip bobber works well over the rip-rap and rock piles.
Three days before writing this, we were on a connecting body of water chasing down perch. Eighty percent of our fish were caught on a Hali jig. Whenever possible, we use the Hali jig in place of a sinker.
Wind, current and very deep waters might dictate going to a bell sinker.
Minnows are a productive bait and are used by most anglers, and with good reason. The primary issue with minnows, finding a store that sells them and keeping them alive afterwards.
One of my perch buddies bought an old aquarium and keeps the minnows in it. It works well, and each day he removes a quart or two of water and adds a quart or two of water.
Worms and wax worms work well, and as the water cools, spikes come on strong. We have a secret bait that works well from time to time. Frozen shrimp cut into small strips and soaked in anise oil. This is not always the best bait, but it catches fish on most days, is easy to care for, and inexpensive.
On most days, perch are not picky; however, there are days when only one bait will land any fish. Perch Pounder rigs, homemade fish skin flies, bright sparkly flies, glow in the dark teardrops, small spoons, mini spinner harness rigs, minnows, wax worms, shrimp, leaf worms, and spikes all catch their fair share of perch.
We fish with two rods, and one rod will have either a Perch Pounder or my home-made fish skin flies. A second rod will have a glow-in-the-dark teardrop and some type of bright perch fly.
Perch are drawn to bright colors, and having a piece of flash-a-bou or crystal flash looks like a fleeing minnow and draws the attention of a perch. We tip our lures with a combination of minnows, shrimp, and worms. As the water cools, the worms are out, and wax worms or spikes take hold. Enjoy fall fishing and remember the good folks at Bob's Gun and Tackle Shop.
Outdoor Truths: The Smell
By Gary Miller
As of this weekend, deer season is officially open in every state. I already feel like I’m behind because I have yet to go. I hope to change that tomorrow.
I’ll hunt but not because I have located a good buck, but because I just need to sit with my thoughts in a tree stand – surrounded by those things that are trustworthy and bring a sense of certainty to me.
Don’t get me wrong, my head will be on a swivel, looking for a rack of antlers moving through the woods. But I am more so looking forward to what’s in the background than I am the subject matter. And the smell. For some reason I have been looking forward to the smell.
My mind wonders at the smell. I have shared many times that while we have a description and some characteristics of what heaven might look like; there is no indication in the scriptures of what heaven might smell like.
I know, however, it will not come from constructed walls and concrete walkways, but most likely from something as simple as dirt. Yes, maybe dirt. After all that is the smell of home.
We know that animals locate their own by smell. Whether it’s deer or cows, they know their own by the unique smell. You love how your mother smelled. Even now, you love the smell of the one you love. You even love the blanket that you had as a child, and even the one you have now. Because it smelled/smells like home.
Isn’t that strange? And neat? In fact, when that blanket smells funny, you wash it because it needs to smell like home. Why? There is comfort and certainty at home. There is rest at home. There is trust at home.
As people made in the image of God, we have two homes. We have earthly parents and our manmade home, and then we have the place where God took dirt and made our earliest grandparents and our earliest home. I think that’s why I look forward to the smell of the woods.
Right now, in all that is going in my life, I need home. I need a bed of dirt and a blanket of dew and God whispering through the trees, that everything is going to be alright. Maybe you, too, need to go home.
—————
Gary Miller has written Outdoor Truths articles for 22 years. He has also written five books which include compilations of his articles and a father/son devotional. He also speaks at wild-game dinners and men’s events for churches and associations. Write to him at gary@outdoortruths.org.
As of this weekend, deer season is officially open in every state. I already feel like I’m behind because I have yet to go. I hope to change that tomorrow.
I’ll hunt but not because I have located a good buck, but because I just need to sit with my thoughts in a tree stand – surrounded by those things that are trustworthy and bring a sense of certainty to me.
Don’t get me wrong, my head will be on a swivel, looking for a rack of antlers moving through the woods. But I am more so looking forward to what’s in the background than I am the subject matter. And the smell. For some reason I have been looking forward to the smell.
My mind wonders at the smell. I have shared many times that while we have a description and some characteristics of what heaven might look like; there is no indication in the scriptures of what heaven might smell like.
I know, however, it will not come from constructed walls and concrete walkways, but most likely from something as simple as dirt. Yes, maybe dirt. After all that is the smell of home.
We know that animals locate their own by smell. Whether it’s deer or cows, they know their own by the unique smell. You love how your mother smelled. Even now, you love the smell of the one you love. You even love the blanket that you had as a child, and even the one you have now. Because it smelled/smells like home.
Isn’t that strange? And neat? In fact, when that blanket smells funny, you wash it because it needs to smell like home. Why? There is comfort and certainty at home. There is rest at home. There is trust at home.
As people made in the image of God, we have two homes. We have earthly parents and our manmade home, and then we have the place where God took dirt and made our earliest grandparents and our earliest home. I think that’s why I look forward to the smell of the woods.
Right now, in all that is going in my life, I need home. I need a bed of dirt and a blanket of dew and God whispering through the trees, that everything is going to be alright. Maybe you, too, need to go home.
—————
Gary Miller has written Outdoor Truths articles for 22 years. He has also written five books which include compilations of his articles and a father/son devotional. He also speaks at wild-game dinners and men’s events for churches and associations. Write to him at gary@outdoortruths.org.
Plant Flavorful and Nutritious Garlic in Fall
Separate garlic cloves right before planting and plant the largest cloves with their papery covering.
Photo credit MelindaMyers.com
Photo credit MelindaMyers.com
By Melinda Myers
Lower your blood pressure and cholesterol, fight heart disease, boost your immune system, and add a bit of flavor to your meals by growing your own garlic. This vegetable has been used as both food and medicine for thousands of years.
Purchase firm, healthy bulbs of garlic sold for growing in the garden. One pound of garlic typically fills a 30-foot row but this can vary depending on the variety. It’s best not to use garlic sold at the grocery store as it may have been treated to prevent sprouting and it may not be suitable for growing in your climate.
Select the best variety for your growing conditions and preferred flavor. Hardneck garlic typically prefers colder climates while most softneck garlic prefers warmer climates, but this varies with the varieties within each group. Hardneck garlic varieties develop a stiff flower stalk, tend to have larger cloves, and flavors ranging from mild to spicy. Softneck varieties vary in their adaptability to long cold winters, cool moist springs and warm summers. They lack the stiff flower stalk so the leaves can be braided, and the bulbs tend to have a longer shelf life.
Garlic bulbs typically contain seven or more individual cloves. The larger the clove you plant, the bigger the bulb you’ll harvest. Separate the cloves right before planting and do not remove the papery covering. Use the largest cloves for growing and the smaller ones to flavor your favorite fall and winter meals.
Grow garlic in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by adding organic matter like compost and a low nitrogen slow-release fertilizer. Avoid high nitrogen, fast release fertilizers that promote top growth with smaller bulbs. Fertilize again in spring as growth begins.
Plant the cloves in the fall about six weeks before the ground freezes in cold climates and late fall or early winter in warmer regions. Space individual cloves six inches apart with the pointed side up and the base of the clove two to three inches below the soil surface. Space single rows 12 to 14 inches apart or double rows six inches apart with 30 inches between each set of double rows. For more intensive wide row and square foot growing, plant multiple rows with four to eight inches between cloves.
Spread a six-inch layer of weed-free straw over the soil surface after planting to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. This also provides added insulation in colder regions and helps prevent frost heaving that occurs when temperatures fluctuate, causing soil to alternately freeze, thaw and shift throughout the winter. Cover the straw with evergreen boughs in windy locations to help hold the straw in place.
Water newly planted garlic thoroughly at planting and as needed in fall to encourage the roots and a shoot to form. Water often enough to keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season.
Inconsistent moisture when the plants are actively growing results in smaller and misshapen bulbs. Keep the soil around the plants covered with organic mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Make this the season you plant garlic. Then enjoy the homegrown flavor and health benefits it provides.
—————
Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is MelindaMyers.com.
Lower your blood pressure and cholesterol, fight heart disease, boost your immune system, and add a bit of flavor to your meals by growing your own garlic. This vegetable has been used as both food and medicine for thousands of years.
Purchase firm, healthy bulbs of garlic sold for growing in the garden. One pound of garlic typically fills a 30-foot row but this can vary depending on the variety. It’s best not to use garlic sold at the grocery store as it may have been treated to prevent sprouting and it may not be suitable for growing in your climate.
Select the best variety for your growing conditions and preferred flavor. Hardneck garlic typically prefers colder climates while most softneck garlic prefers warmer climates, but this varies with the varieties within each group. Hardneck garlic varieties develop a stiff flower stalk, tend to have larger cloves, and flavors ranging from mild to spicy. Softneck varieties vary in their adaptability to long cold winters, cool moist springs and warm summers. They lack the stiff flower stalk so the leaves can be braided, and the bulbs tend to have a longer shelf life.
Garlic bulbs typically contain seven or more individual cloves. The larger the clove you plant, the bigger the bulb you’ll harvest. Separate the cloves right before planting and do not remove the papery covering. Use the largest cloves for growing and the smaller ones to flavor your favorite fall and winter meals.
Grow garlic in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by adding organic matter like compost and a low nitrogen slow-release fertilizer. Avoid high nitrogen, fast release fertilizers that promote top growth with smaller bulbs. Fertilize again in spring as growth begins.
Plant the cloves in the fall about six weeks before the ground freezes in cold climates and late fall or early winter in warmer regions. Space individual cloves six inches apart with the pointed side up and the base of the clove two to three inches below the soil surface. Space single rows 12 to 14 inches apart or double rows six inches apart with 30 inches between each set of double rows. For more intensive wide row and square foot growing, plant multiple rows with four to eight inches between cloves.
Spread a six-inch layer of weed-free straw over the soil surface after planting to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. This also provides added insulation in colder regions and helps prevent frost heaving that occurs when temperatures fluctuate, causing soil to alternately freeze, thaw and shift throughout the winter. Cover the straw with evergreen boughs in windy locations to help hold the straw in place.
Water newly planted garlic thoroughly at planting and as needed in fall to encourage the roots and a shoot to form. Water often enough to keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season.
Inconsistent moisture when the plants are actively growing results in smaller and misshapen bulbs. Keep the soil around the plants covered with organic mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Make this the season you plant garlic. Then enjoy the homegrown flavor and health benefits it provides.
—————
Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is MelindaMyers.com.
It’s Firewood Month: Do You Know What’s in Your Wood?
Most people don’t spend much time thinking about firewood. If it’s split and dry, it’s good to go, right?
Well, maybe not. In recognition of Firewood Month, Michigan’s Invasive Species Program is taking a few minutes to unpack some firewood facts to help you make safe firewood choices to protect Michigan’s trees and forests.
Heating a home or enjoying a cozy evening by the fire is a great way to repurpose dead trees, but we often don’t think about what killed them.
Invasive insects like emerald ash borer or fungi like oak wilt can kill even healthy trees.
Other trees succumb to environmental conditions like drought, overcrowding or storm damage. Once a tree is weakened, it can become home to a host of insects and fungi that often remain in the wood even after it has been cut.
That means dead wood is often alive with harmful insects and diseases that can be transported to new locations on or in firewood.
—————
What’s in my wood?
Wood borers. “Wood borer” is a general term for beetles that lay eggs on or in the bark of trees. When eggs hatch, these insects spend their larval stages tunneling into and feeding on wood, destroying tissues that move sap and water through the tree.
Many wood borers are native and seek out weakened trees. Others, such as invasive emerald ash borer and the Asian longhorned beetle (found in nearby states), infest healthy trees and cause their decline and death.
Wood borer eggs and larvae can remain in wood after trees die. Because they often are under bark or within the wood itself, they can go unnoticed until they emerge as adults. A Michigan study of 1,045 firewood pieces transported by the public indicated 23 percent contained live borers and an additional 41 percent showed evidence of previous borer infestation.
Adelgids. Adelgids are small, soft-bodied insects that feed on coniferous plants like pines or firs using piercing/sucking mouthparts. Agencies and partners in Michigan’s Invasive Species Program are working hard to prevent the spread of hemlock woolly adelgid in west Michigan. The Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development is managing balsam woolly adelgid in areas of Clare, Missaukee and Oceana counties.
Adelgids are hard to see with the naked eye and are usually detected by the small, white, cottony tufts they spin to protect their eggs. Over time, hemlock and balsam woolly adelgids can kill their host trees by depleting sap and preventing its circulation.
Fungal diseases. Whether native or invasive, many types of fungi can cause tree death. Fungal diseases move around via spores or other structures and are spread in a variety of ways. Both invasive oak wilt and Dutch elm disease fungal spores can be spread by beetles. When trees die of fungal disease, the fungus can remain alive even if the wood is cut. Moving infected wood can spread tree diseases to areas far beyond a beetle’s range.
Egg masses. For many Michiganders, spongy moths (formerly gypsy moths) and their munching caterpillars are all too familiar. While female moths can’t fly, they easily spread across the state by depositing egg masses on vehicles, outdoor equipment and firewood, which are then moved around by people.
With invasive spotted lanternfly now present in areas of southeast Michigan, the same scenario is likely to play out again unless we all take the time to look for and remove egg masses from belongings and adopt safe firewood practices.
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Here's the takeaway: Don’t take it away!
Wood that looks clean and healthy can harbor tiny insects, eggs or microscopic fungi spores that can start a new and deadly infestation. Always leave your backyard firewood at home, even if you think it looks fine.
—————
How to keep the fire burning
You can still have a roaring campfire or a cozy night in front of the fireplace if you just know how to burn safely.
• Aged or seasoned wood is not safe to move. Just because it is dry doesn’t mean it’s clean. A recent study showed insects continued to emerge from firewood even three years after it had been cut.
• Buy firewood near where you will burn it – a good rule of thumb is only using wood that was cut within 50 miles of where you’ll have your fire.
• Certified, heat-treated firewood is safe to move long distances. Look for a federal stamp or seal on the package, and keep the firewood in the original packaging if entering a campground that requires heat-treated wood.
• If you buy firewood and don’t burn it all, don’t bring it home or to your next destination.
• Tell your friends not to bring wood with them – everyone needs to know they should not move firewood.
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We’ve got a lot to protect
More than half of our state is forested – with an estimated 14 billion trees! Trees are part of every landscape we enjoy, from fall forest colors to river corridors to shady sidewalks and parks. Making safe firewood choices helps to protect the diversity and health of Michigan’s forest resources.
Learn more about protecting trees from invasive species at DontMoveFirewood.org.
Well, maybe not. In recognition of Firewood Month, Michigan’s Invasive Species Program is taking a few minutes to unpack some firewood facts to help you make safe firewood choices to protect Michigan’s trees and forests.
Heating a home or enjoying a cozy evening by the fire is a great way to repurpose dead trees, but we often don’t think about what killed them.
Invasive insects like emerald ash borer or fungi like oak wilt can kill even healthy trees.
Other trees succumb to environmental conditions like drought, overcrowding or storm damage. Once a tree is weakened, it can become home to a host of insects and fungi that often remain in the wood even after it has been cut.
That means dead wood is often alive with harmful insects and diseases that can be transported to new locations on or in firewood.
—————
What’s in my wood?
Wood borers. “Wood borer” is a general term for beetles that lay eggs on or in the bark of trees. When eggs hatch, these insects spend their larval stages tunneling into and feeding on wood, destroying tissues that move sap and water through the tree.
Many wood borers are native and seek out weakened trees. Others, such as invasive emerald ash borer and the Asian longhorned beetle (found in nearby states), infest healthy trees and cause their decline and death.
Wood borer eggs and larvae can remain in wood after trees die. Because they often are under bark or within the wood itself, they can go unnoticed until they emerge as adults. A Michigan study of 1,045 firewood pieces transported by the public indicated 23 percent contained live borers and an additional 41 percent showed evidence of previous borer infestation.
Adelgids. Adelgids are small, soft-bodied insects that feed on coniferous plants like pines or firs using piercing/sucking mouthparts. Agencies and partners in Michigan’s Invasive Species Program are working hard to prevent the spread of hemlock woolly adelgid in west Michigan. The Michigan Department of Agriculture and Rural Development is managing balsam woolly adelgid in areas of Clare, Missaukee and Oceana counties.
Adelgids are hard to see with the naked eye and are usually detected by the small, white, cottony tufts they spin to protect their eggs. Over time, hemlock and balsam woolly adelgids can kill their host trees by depleting sap and preventing its circulation.
Fungal diseases. Whether native or invasive, many types of fungi can cause tree death. Fungal diseases move around via spores or other structures and are spread in a variety of ways. Both invasive oak wilt and Dutch elm disease fungal spores can be spread by beetles. When trees die of fungal disease, the fungus can remain alive even if the wood is cut. Moving infected wood can spread tree diseases to areas far beyond a beetle’s range.
Egg masses. For many Michiganders, spongy moths (formerly gypsy moths) and their munching caterpillars are all too familiar. While female moths can’t fly, they easily spread across the state by depositing egg masses on vehicles, outdoor equipment and firewood, which are then moved around by people.
With invasive spotted lanternfly now present in areas of southeast Michigan, the same scenario is likely to play out again unless we all take the time to look for and remove egg masses from belongings and adopt safe firewood practices.
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Here's the takeaway: Don’t take it away!
Wood that looks clean and healthy can harbor tiny insects, eggs or microscopic fungi spores that can start a new and deadly infestation. Always leave your backyard firewood at home, even if you think it looks fine.
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How to keep the fire burning
You can still have a roaring campfire or a cozy night in front of the fireplace if you just know how to burn safely.
• Aged or seasoned wood is not safe to move. Just because it is dry doesn’t mean it’s clean. A recent study showed insects continued to emerge from firewood even three years after it had been cut.
• Buy firewood near where you will burn it – a good rule of thumb is only using wood that was cut within 50 miles of where you’ll have your fire.
• Certified, heat-treated firewood is safe to move long distances. Look for a federal stamp or seal on the package, and keep the firewood in the original packaging if entering a campground that requires heat-treated wood.
• If you buy firewood and don’t burn it all, don’t bring it home or to your next destination.
• Tell your friends not to bring wood with them – everyone needs to know they should not move firewood.
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We’ve got a lot to protect
More than half of our state is forested – with an estimated 14 billion trees! Trees are part of every landscape we enjoy, from fall forest colors to river corridors to shady sidewalks and parks. Making safe firewood choices helps to protect the diversity and health of Michigan’s forest resources.
Learn more about protecting trees from invasive species at DontMoveFirewood.org.
